Barcelona’s day time / night time go-to, Vermouth
It’s a wonderful feeling when you first discover a new drink, away from home. Actually, it’s wonderful when you first discover a new drink. But when you first experience something – anything really – in new surroundings, it acquires a greater meaning, a deeper enjoyment, and is that much more exciting.
I was first introduced to ouzo on the Greek island of Kefalonia, and its cooling, bitter tang still transports me back to the pale golden beaches of the Ionian coastline, and the feel of hazy sun on my skin.
Similarly, the first time I tasted gluwein was whilst navigating throngs of festivity outside the Grand Cathedral in Strasbourg in December, and its heady, pungent aroma still instils in me the instinct to outstretch my elbows and fight my way through a crowd eager to burden themselves with festive baubles.
I was sure a prolonged stay in Barcelona would be sure to yield some new drinking delights, and I wasn’t disappointed. Within a few nights of taking up residence in a tiny apartment in the labyrinthine streets of the Barceloneta neighborhood (an ancient neighbourhood nestled between the beach and the old city) I had discovered amongst its heaving tapas bars and bodegas the locals’ secret – vermouth.
Vermouth – like sherry – doesn’t enjoy the best reputation (although this is beginning to change thankfully)! Like its sweeter cousin, it’s often found perched, hiding at the back of Aunty’s drinks cabinet, laying dusty and untouched from one Christmas to the next. Whilst white dry vermouth is given a cursory outing for the odd vesper martini, its scarlet sister is misunderstood, misused, and miserable no doubt, at her lonely fate.
Not so in this town. Give her a glass of ice and a sea view, and maybe the faint strums of a Spanish guitar in the background, and she receives new life. Give her a slice of orange and a bowl of olives, and she’ll practically hand you the maracas.
Vermouth de la casa – as you should order it – is sweet and bitter at the same time, dark claret in colour, refreshing yet with real bite. If blended well – and no barman will reveal his recipe – it will yield aromas of fruit and spice, and notes of oranges, pepper, with a lingering dash of Indian tea.
Served traditionally as an aperitif, you can choose which meal you wish it to precede, for generally it is drunk any time after 11(I think that’s a.m. and p.m. from what I gathered)! Unlike the Italians, who frown upon certain drinks being consumed after a certain hour, the Spanish are entirely unfussy about your predilections, and will happily serve you a vermouth at 9am or 9pm, with the same going for a cappuccino).Wonderful with a bowl of olives, to whet the appetite, it is equally delicious with a pudding, such as Catalana Crème (a fluffier version of the well-known crème brulee), or to accompany a heady cheese plate.
Having said that, one of the best places I sampled a vermouth was at an Italian pizzeria on the main strip leading down to the beach. Served with a hunk of pink grapefruit, and a solitary chunk of ice, its bittersweet moreishness led it from starting as an aperitif, to a pizza-accompanying beverage, to after-pudding entertainment.
It’s starting to gain more prominence in the UK, with most supermarkets and bars selling the well-known brands. But as the fun lies in perfecting the blend, the best way to enjoy this drink is to buy a few and mix up your own recipe. Viva l’Espagna!
If you are travelling to Barcelona be sure to try:
Bar Electricitat
This classic vermouth bar holds legendary status in Barceloneta, and understandably so. The ambiance is easy and casual and as you’d expect, the vermouth is flowing! The bottle is left on your table and when you’ve finished you let them know how many glasses you’ve poured. Needless to say, be careful, as you could end up drinking a lot more than you set out to! The food is simple and delicious which will leave you fuzzy and happy – nothing to do with the self-pour bottle on the table, nope!
Address: Carrer Sant Carles, 15
Quimet i Quimet
Oh classic and old-school vermouth bar of dreams, hello! Quimet i Quimet. Showcases over 100 years of history through its high wooden beams and shelves of bottles that may not have been dusted since it opened but who cares?! The conservas, a very popular snack of canned shellfish are hugely popular among the locals. They also have plenty of freshly prepared montaditos or little sandwiches, that are the perfect way to hold you over until your late Spanish lunch.
Address: Carrer Poeta Cabanyes, 25
Next stop will be the Negroni so brace, brace!